Mar’aa: A Skyline Distraction in Yorkville

There’s a certain magic to rising fifty-one stories above Toronto, the elevator humming with the promise of escape into rarified air. At Mar’aa, perched atop the Manulife Centre, that promise fades almost immediately. The arrival feels transactional rather than transportive—no gracious welcome, no sparkling aperitif to mark the shift from street to sky. Just a brisk check at the host stand and the creeping sense that warmth and polish have been left behind.

The view, of course, is extraordinary. The city stretches out in a glittering panorama, the skyline shimmering like a jewel box, but the setting undermines its own grandeur. Patio tables wobble at the slightest touch, cocktails shiver precariously with each adjustment of a chair, and the $120 shisha upsell feels more opportunistic than indulgent. It is hard to sink into the moment when the very stage on which the experience unfolds feels neglected.

The menu reads like a celebration of Middle Eastern flavours reframed through modern sensibilities. The Spice Market Margarita promised saffron-infused tequila layered with citrus and coconut milk, but the saffron barely whispered while the coconut drowned out every other note, leaving a cocktail that felt dense and overly sweet rather than nuanced. The Maktub, a watermelon and lime cooler, arrived looking radiant, garnished with care, but drank like sweet juice dressed for a more sophisticated party it wasn’t quite prepared to attend.

The Harissa Chicken with Feta came closest to delivering balance. The smoky chicken and roasted peppers played nicely against the feta’s salty brightness, the flavours lively and clean. Yet the doughy pita robbed the dish of the textural counterpoint that might have lifted it. The Tahini Caesar, by contrast, was weighed down from the start. Halloumi, wagyu bacon, and sesame-rich dressing suggested originality, but the halloumi squeaked and resisted, the wagyu bacon was barely detectable, and the heavy-handed dressing collapsed the whole concept into something leaden.

A main of Lemon Sumac Chicken offered a glimpse of hope with its charred skin and aromatic promise, but the meat beneath was dry and uninspired. The almond purée meant to give depth sat pasty on the tongue, lacking the refinement that might have tied the dish together. Only the roasted grapes scattered across the plate offered relief, their fleeting bursts of sweetness hinting at the balance the dish aspired to but never achieved. Strangely, the most compelling bite of the evening came from a humble bowl of lentils. Layered with golden raisins, pomegranate molasses, capers, and sumac onions, the dish was bright, earthy, and quietly inventive. It was the one moment where restraint and harmony triumphed over theatrics.

Dessert, too, managed to restore some faith. The Kunafa Pistachio Mousse, cradled in a delicate nest of crisp kataifi and drizzled with tahini-salted caramel, was a genuine success. Each bite balanced crunch with silk, nutty depth with gentle sweetness.

Service struggled to rise to the occasion. A restaurant at this altitude must trade as much on hospitality as on its view, but here the rhythm falters. Courses arrived in uneven bursts, water glasses sat empty, and plates lingered long after their usefulness. Severs were evidently stretched too thin to offer the attentiveness that creates a sense of care. The impression was of a system designed for efficiency rather than grace, the mechanics of dinner rather than the art of it.

Mar’aa dazzles because Toronto does much of the work for it. The city’s lights are magnetic, the altitude alone intoxicating, but restaurants are primarily judged at the table. Here, too much is left unfinished: service that falters, dishes that overreach, details that betray the ambition. There are glimmers, but they are few and far between. Until Mar’aa matches its setting with substance, it will remain what it feels like now: a toursity vantage point, not a quality dining destination.

Bisous,

Mme. M.

2.5/5

La rubrique de Madame Marie

1 étoile – Run. Before you get the runs.
2 étoiles – Mediocre, but nothing you couldn’t make at home.
3 étoiles – C’est bon, with some standout qualities.
4 étoiles – Many memorable qualities and excellent execution. Compliments to the chef.
5 étoiles – Formidable! Michelin Star quality. Book a reservation immediately.