Restaurant Review: Lunch Lady – A Taste of Vietnam in Toronto

Lunch Lady’s arrival on Ossington Avenue feels like a natural next chapter for a restaurant with such storied beginnings. Once a humble soup stall tucked into a bustling corner of Ho Chi Minh City, the original Lunch Lady became a global name after Anthony Bourdain declared her daily-changing soups a must-try experience. In the years since, the concept has evolved—first to Vancouver, where it gained a loyal following for its inventive takes on Vietnamese street fare, and now to Toronto, where it has set up shop on Ossy, one of the city’s most culinary-conscious corridors.

The Toronto outpost exudes casual confidence. The design is modern with subtle nods to its Vietnamese roots—sunlight spills across patterned tiles, rattan textures warm up the space, and a gentle hum of energy flows between the kitchen and dining room. A sizeable portion of the interior is held for walk-ins, a rarity in a city increasingly ruled by OpenTable and rigid reservation systems. They offer lunch and dinner service, plus takeout, and for those craving an effortless dining experience, a family-style option at $65 per person delivers a curated tour of the kitchen’s favourites.

Lunch Lady’s patio is a compact but charming stretch of sidewalk space framed by greenery and the ambient thrum of Ossington’s weekend traffic. It felt intimate, the kind of perch that encourages lingering over cocktails and people-watching.

To start, I ordered the Mango Margarita, a sweet and spicy affair combining tequila, mezcal, Cointreau, mango and Thai chili tincture. It arrived bright and golden, with a subtle smokiness from the mezcal and a teasing kick of chili at the finish. Balanced and layered, it set the tone beautifully.

The Khoai Chiên & Nước Chấm arrived next—a generous tangle of taro chips, light and shatteringly crisp, alongside a pale green chili aioli. The dip was the star: velvety and herbaceous, with just enough heat to build interest without overwhelming. It elevated the humble chip into something craveable.

The Crispy Prawns, served in their floating shells, were visually impressive, each one a sculptural curl beside its empty shell. The batter crunched satisfyingly, giving way to plump, juicy prawn. Paired with a lively chili lime sauce, they disappeared far too quickly.

From there, we moved on to the Octopus Skewers. Charred to a whisper of black at the edges, the octopus was tender and yielding, with the lemongrass chili sate marinade infusing each bite with smoke and citrus. A scattering of Vietnamese coriander and a tangy green chili sauce completed the dish, which was easily the highlight of the evening, elegantly balanced, confident and deeply flavorful.

Unfortunately, the meal wavered as we entered the mains. The Garlic Noodles, billed as a rich indulgence with XO garlic butter, parmigiano and a soft poached egg, were unexpectedly briny. Rather than a mellow depth, the dish was dominated by a strong fishiness that dulled the lushness of the butter and cheese, and left little room for nuance.

The Steak Lúc Lắc, a beautifully marbled 8oz Canadian prime ribeye from Martin’s Family Farm, was seared with precision, its edges caramelized and centre still juicy. Yet the accompanying burnt scallion butter was oddly bitter and one-note, veering away from the complexity one might expect. It jarred against the richness of the crispy cassava, which themselves had promise. A dish with potential, but lacking harmony.

To finish, we ordered the Chè Ba Màu, a visually captivating three-layer dessert. The pandan sticky rice cake was dense and fragrant, the coconut condensed milk gelato creamy and cooling, and the strawberry red bean purée offered a touch of sweetness with earthiness underneath. It was clever and texturally playful. But by this point, the service—so attentive at the beginning of our meal—had faded. Dessert took far longer than it should have, and we were left waving for the bill like passengers stranded at sea.

Lunch Lady Toronto is not without charm. The atmosphere is inviting, the menu is ambitious, and the kitchen clearly has talent. I can understand why Bourdain spoke so highly of it. The early courses impressed with flavour, finesse and flair. But the inconsistency in execution, particularly with the mains, and the drop in service left the experience feeling unpolished by the end. Perhaps these kinks will work themselves out over time.

Still, for a new addition to Ossington’s ever-changing dining landscape, it holds promise. If the kitchen can smooth out the seasoning and the front of house finds its rhythm, this could very well become a neighborhood staple. For now, it remains a meal I’m glad I experienced, but one I hope continues to evolve.

Bisous,

Mme M. xoxo

3/5 étoiles

La rubrique de Madame Marie

1 étoile – Run. Before you get the runs.
2 étoiles – Mediocre, but nothing you couldn’t make at home.
3 étoiles – C’est bon, with some standout qualities.
4 étoiles – Many memorable qualities and excellent execution. Compliments to the chef.
5 étoiles – Formidable! Michelin Star quality. Book a reservation immediately.