Restaurant Review: The Pine – A Dining Experience That Transcends Its Michelin Star

In the sleepy village of Creemore, a culinary destination emerges from the most unexpected of places. The Pine, housed in a converted garage, is a gastronomic revelation that manages to be both intimate and expansive. A place where the elements of simplicity and sophistication coalesce, it offers a Michelin-calibre dining experience that feels both refreshing and timeless. Owned by husband-and-wife team Jeremy and Cassie Austin, this small, unassuming spot has become one of the most exciting dining destinations in Ontario, and recently relocated from Collingwood to Creemore. Read my previous review here.

The understated charm of The Pine extends beyond its Scandinavian-inspired minimalist décor. It is in the hands of Chef Jeremy Austin that this unassuming space is transformed into a stage for culinary alchemy. Each dish is imbued with influences from Jeremy’s global travels, particularly his mastery of wok hei, the elusive “breath of the wok” technique that he honed in Mainland China and Hong Kong. The six-seat chef’s counter offers the privilege of watching flames and steam unfurl as dishes emerge from the 200,000-BTU woks, each dish touched by an almost elemental force.

The blind Chef’s Counter tasting menu ($265 per person with optional wine pairings), spanning up to 18 courses, is a masterful blend of creativity and respect for Ontario’s local produce. It begins with the tea egg, a delicately marbled hen egg soaked in a fragrant black tea infusion with cinnamon, star anise, and cardamom. The rich yolk, complemented by a smoky mustard deviled egg filling and crowned with Canadian sturgeon caviar, creates a harmonious balance of umami and spice—an elegant and comforting introduction to the meal.

From here, the dishes continue to delight. One of the evening’s standout moments comes with Hold that Thought, inspired by a traditional Chinese recipe. A delicate tart resting in an articulated hand model containing Dungeness crab, topped with a beet flower, and beet puree. It’s presented alongside a thought-provoking invitation to reflect on the best memory you’ve ever had and to, like the dish’s name implies: hold that thought. The sweetness of the crab, balanced by the earthy notes of beetroot, leaves an indelible impression that stays with you.

By far, one of the standouts of the evening is The French Concession, which takes diners on an unexpected journey between cultures, marrying the richness of French culinary tradition with Chinese influences. Sourdough seared in brown butter and braised in a tangy Kabayaki sauce, serves as the base for this dish. Foie gras ganache adds an indulgent layer of richness, its smoothness contrasting beautifully with the tangy sourdough, while a splash of sourdough gin enhances the umami flavours and ties the dish together in a way that is both innovative and comforting.

The Zheng Shui Dan is a bold reinterpretation of Chinese crème brûlée with three layers of complexity. At the base, the steeped egg custard is a perfect balance of sweetness and savoriness, paired with wok-fried venison dressed in scallion oil. The fermented pepper foam adds a vibrant note of spice, while the St. Brigid’s butter serves as a rich counterpoint. The dish is completed with a delicate cracker that encourages diners to savour the entire experience, from the custard to the foam, each layer offering something new and exciting.

Chef Jeremy has had the Carrot Jiaozi on the menu since The Pine’s early days, and for good reason. It presents a puree of roasted carrots and brown butter wrapped in a tender dumpling skin, glistening with brown butter and dusted with chives. This dish, one of the restaurant’s signatures, highlights the natural sweetness of the carrots. Each bite feels like a celebration of seasonal produce, with a satisfying depth of flavour that speaks to the careful craftsmanship.

One of the evening’s most immersive moments arrives unexpectedly. After several rounds of intricate, vibrant dishes, guests are invited into the kitchen itself to experience the palate cleanser. It’s an invitation that feels less like an interlude and more like an extension of the evening’s magic. There, under the warm glow of the kitchen lights, Chef Jeremy and his team serve a refreshing sorbet with a dried apple fruit roll-up, its bright acidity and cooling freshness offering a moment of purity amidst the complexity of the preceding courses. The experience is tactile, up-close, and utterly mesmerizing—watching the delicate art of plating unfold before your eyes, feeling the hum of the kitchen as a quiet rhythm that drives the night forward. In this moment, the boundaries between guest and chef dissolve, creating a connection that elevates the meal into something more personal, more profound.

As we make our way back to our front-row seats, the seafood courses arrive, infused with local sensibilities. Lobster arrives in four distinct forms. Perhaps my favourite is the playful lobster “Timbit”—and ode to Canada itself—topped with a morsel of lobster and a tangy smoked cherry vinegar and foie gras tart.

The Song Shu Yu, a dish of Lake Erie pickerel, fried in sweet and sour sauce and grilled over charcoal, is a true reflection of The Pine’s ability to bring out the essence of local ingredients. Paired with kohlrabi, butter beans, honeynut squash puree, and a fermented cabbage sauce, it delivers a harmonious balance of flavours that are both familiar and elevated. The béarnaise sauce made from goat’s butter provides a rich, velvety finish that ties all the components together in perfect unity. This dish encapsulates Chef Jeremy’s mastery of blending local ingredients with global influences, transforming each bite into a reflection of both the earth and sea.

Another highlight is the Charsiu—a play on a traditional Chinese BBQ. It arrives as guinea fowl, with a depth of flavour that is uniquely its own. The fowl is served with a velvety sunchoke puree, beet emulsion, and an olive leaf cardamom jus that enhances the dish’s complexity, making it an unforgettable main course. To end the meal on a nostalgic and comforting note, the Hong Kong French Toast 6.0 is served sitting in a pool of milk and topped with salted caramel sauce. It’s a whimsical ending to the meal.

As much as the food celebrates global techniques, it is grounded in Ontario’s terroir. The produce, often sourced from Cassie Austin’s family farm, gives each dish a sense of place—a tangible connection to the land. The wine pairings, which span both Old World classics and distinctive offerings from Ontario and beyond, provide the perfect complement to Chef Jeremy’s innovative cuisine. A mineral-forward sparkling wine from Last House Vineyard in Prince Edward County’s emerging wine regions pairs seamlessly with the rich bites earlier in the menu, its crispness cutting through each dish’s richness. Meanwhile, a Burgundy pinot noir from Domaine David Duband enhances the savoury complexity of the pickerel. The wine list is carefully curated by general manager, Jeremiah Tomas, with a focus on those that elevate the food without competing with its nuanced flavours.

But it is not just the culinary feats that elevate The Pine to its extraordinary heights—it is the hospitality that binds it all together. Jeremiah, in particular, is a force of nature. His presence is calm yet commanding, and every detail is executed with a level of care that is palpable. He ensures that every aspect of the experience feels seamless—no request too small, no detail too trivial.

The unhurried pace of the meal, with only one seating per night, further enhances the experience. Time seems to slow down; there is no rush, no distractions. Throughout, an amazing playlist—featuring classics like “Dreams” by Fleetwood Mac—pumps in the background, adding to the restaurant’s laid-back yet vibrant ambiance. Everything else fades into the backdrop as the evening unfolds in a leisurely, almost meditative manner. It is a rare thing to experience service that feels both personal and polished, and at The Pine, it is nothing short of exceptional.

The Pine is a rare gem in dining these days, a restaurant that humbly exudes sophistication without ever being ostentatious. It is a place where every element—whether it be the carefully crafted dishes, the thoughtful wine pairings, or the impeccable service—comes together to create an experience that leaves an indelible impression. For those fortunate enough to experience this restaurant, The Pine is undeniably worth more than just one Michelin star—it speaks to the soul, a destination that whispers of worldly adventures while speaking fluently in the language of home. For those lucky enough to find their way to Creemore, this is an experience not to be missed.

Bisous,

Mme M. xoxo

5/5 étoiles

La rubrique de Madame Marie

1 étoile – Run. Before you get the runs.
2 étoiles – Mediocre, but nothing you couldn’t make at home.
3 étoiles – C’est bon, with some standout qualities.
4 étoiles – Many memorable qualities and excellent execution. Compliments to the chef.
5 étoiles – Formidable! Michelin Star quality. Book a reservation immediately.