Restaurant Review: Hexagon – Six Sides of Splendor

When I first stepped foot into Hexagon in 2018, it was clear that the Oakville newcomer was poised for greatness. The space already carried itself with a quiet confidence. By my return visit in the fall of 2020, that early promise had aged like a fine wine. Now, in 2024, Hexagon has rightfully claimed its first Michelin star, and the dining experience there proves a point that’s both simple and extraordinary: given enough time and dedication, a good restaurant can become a magnificent one.

Hexagon’s interior strikes a careful balance between contemporary chic and understated comfort. The dining room unfolds beneath hushed lighting and warm accents—think soft candlelight reflecting off polished wood and a subtle colour palette. Hexagonal motifs appear throughout, culminating in a custom geometric light fixture that casts a honeyed glow, subtly reminding guests of the restaurant’s identity. The open kitchen adds a note of theatricality, seamlessly blending the art of fine dining with the reassuring familiarity of a well-loved gathering place.

Chef Rafael Covarrubias, a 30-year-old talent from Mexico, stands as the architect of Hexagon’s culinary ascent. His cooking weaves a personal narrative through a French-inflected lens, producing a menu that is unapologetically global—where Old World technique meets New World flair, and where reverence for local, seasonal Canadian ingredients holds it all together. This synergy extends beyond Covarrubias himself. His vision is brought to life by a passionate team, including Sous-Chef Victoria Rinsma, who recently won the Canadian final of the S.Pellegrino Young Chef Academy competition and will soon represent Canada in Milan. That collaborative spirit is palpable—it’s evident in the open kitchen’s hum, spot it in every plated detail, and taste it in each meticulously balanced course.

But what truly sets Hexagon apart is its sense of place—solidly in Oakville’s refined environs while pulling subtle threads of Covarrubias’ own heritage into every dish. If the kitchen is a stage, then Covarrubias is a director who knows precisely where his spotlight should fall.

While the chef’s tasting menu provides an immersive, story-driven experience—each course building upon the last with thoughtful precision—those who prefer a more flexible approach can choose from an extensive à la carte selection during dinner service and on Sunday brunch.

My guest and I opt for the chef’s tasting menu and everything starts small, in the best possible way. The amuse bouches arrive as a trio of tidy wonders: a buñuelo topped with pargo salad and a dusting of smoky chintextle; a playful takoyaki reimagined with piquillo pepper, Marcona almond draped in a slice of Ibérico chorizo; and a delicate tartlette of sweet, briny Hokkaido scallop anchored by herbaceous mojo verde. These opening gestures—simultaneously crisp, creamy, and bright—announce a kitchen that understands both complexity and restraint.

Next, a fluke ceviche shimmering in a vibrant Granny Smith apple broth arrives, jolting the palate awake with its green acidity and floral shiso notes, each spoonful crowned with a pop of caviar. Then comes PEI Bluefin otoro, that lush tuna belly, arranged in the middle of a pistachio, poblano chile and tarragon sauce, and fine curls of daikon—a composition that feels almost painterly. The flavours tiptoe between delicate and daring, a confident dance that reaffirms Hexagon’s one-star status.

But the agnolotti is THE pinnacle of the tasting menu, and so satisfying that I could return to it day after day and remain endlessly enchanted. It’s a labour of love made from Koginut squash (a brilliant hybrid of kabocha and butternut) that’s been dehydrated for five days to intensify its natural sweetness. The velvety pockets, buoyed by the rich creaminess of Délice de Bourgogne and the subtle tang of Minus 8 vinegar, wear their white truffle shavings like a luxurious stole. The squash, coaxed into smoky depth over binchotan charcoal, delivers an autumnal elegance.

The menu continues with a lacquered striped bass surrounded by a glossy pil pil sauce and nixtamalized squash (a process where an ingredient, oftentimes a grain, is soaked and cooked in an alkaline solution, washed, and then hulled).

Then, the aged duck takes centre stage. A female duck—chosen for its tenderness—has undergone no fewer than ten “baths” to guarantee the crispest skin imaginable. Served with chanterelles, quince, ancho chile, and a hint of foie gras, it’s a presentation that transcends the old cliché of decadence. The dish is sumptuous yet precise, a culinary haiku that lingers long after the last bite. Meanwhile, Australia’s wagyu finds itself in the company of a hauntingly dark mole negro, alongside a delicate salsify tetela and corn that sings of late-season harvest.

Each preparation is supported by a beverage program that seems to read the dishes like a score. Martin, the sommelier, guides patrons through a wine list that is both worldly and grounded, while Kevin, the beverage manager, ensures cocktails and non-alcoholic pairings stand proudly on their own merits—transparent, clever, and never overshadowed by the food.

Desserts at Hexagon maintain the evening’s narrative arc. A carrot sorbet with habanada and seabuckthorn brightens the palate, clearing the path for a Basque cheesecake that’s velvety and caramel-kissed, an echo of quiet satisfaction that ends the meal on a resonant note. By the time the petits fours—quince candies and almond dulce de leche—appear, you’re more guest than customer, ushered gently toward the meal’s closing credits.

None of this would feel right without impeccable service, and here, it is far from stiff. It is both polished and human. Not a moment goes by where you sense pretension. this team understands the warmth and honesty that turn fine dining into something more than a performance. Each interaction by our server, John Paul, feels genuine, as if we were old friends. That ease and warmth matter more than ever in a dining climate obsessed with formality. It’s reassuring to know you can get world-class cooking without sacrificing humanity.

In 2018, I saw a restaurant with potential. In 2020, I tasted refinement honed by experience. And, in 2024, I witnessed a Michelin-starred destination that has truly come into its own. Hexagon is a testament to patience, passion, and the pursuit of excellence—worthy of accolades, worthy of your attention, and worthy of its Michelin one-star rating that leaves you hungry for a very bright future.

4.5/5

La rubrique de Madame Marie

1 étoile – Run. Before you get the runs.
2 étoiles – Mediocre, but nothing you couldn’t make at home.
3 étoiles – C’est bon, with some standout qualities.
4 étoiles – Many memorable qualities and excellent execution. Compliments to the chef.
5 étoiles – Formidable! Michelin Star quality. Book a reservation immediately.