Restaurant Review: Fat Pasha – Middle Eastern Splendor Stumbles Over Service Missteps

Fat Pasha is an Annex darling that has been gracing Toronto’s restaurant scene for a decade. Known for transforming comfort food into high-concept delights, Chef/owner Anthony Rose has built a small empire, and Fat Pasha stands as a vibrant homage to the bold flavours of the Middle East. While the kitchen dazzles, there’s a sense that this beloved establishment may be resting on its laurels—at least when it comes to the dining room.

The moment you step through the door, Fat Pasha embraces you in its cozy, rustic warmth. Wall-mounted lanterns glow against the backdrop of worn wooden tables and walls adorned with Middle Eastern artifacts, offering a comforting intimacy. The setting is ripe with anticipation, promising a communal experience that invites diners to savour, share, and explore. It’s a space that hums with the energy of a neighborhood favourite, particularly on weekends when the brunch crowd packs the room, hungry for Rose’s signature twists on morning fare.

But when it comes to the real stars of the menu, Fat Pasha’s Fat Salatim Platter sets the bar. A feast in itself, the assortment of dips—silky hummus, charred baba ganoush, whipped labneh, and a spicy muhammara—feels like a love letter to Middle Eastern cuisine. Rose’s deft hand is evident in each bite, balancing smokiness, creaminess, and spice. Paired with a surprisingly bitter rapini tabule, the platter is as much a sensory delight as it is a culinary one. Fried falafel and warm pita round out the starter, which effortlessly introduces the meal’s themes of abundance and depth.

Fat Pasha’s signature dish, the Famous Roasted Cauliflower, exemplifies Rose’s knack for elevating the humble vegetable to divine status. Roasted until caramelized, it arrives bathed in a fiery skhug, smoothed over by rich tahini and salty halloumi, and brightened with the pop of pomegranate arils. This medley of flavours—the heat of the skhug, the creaminess of tahini, and the sweet-sharpness of pomegranate—makes the cauliflower both a spectacle and a show-stopper, leaving little doubt as to why it’s become a legend in its own right.

Then there are the Fried Crushed Potatoes—another seemingly simple dish that punches well above its weight. Crisped to golden perfection and drenched in a garlicky chili dressing, they are crowned with shavings of melted halloumi that lend a savoury depth. These potatoes, paired with the cauliflower, demonstrate Rose’s ability to make side dishes as complex and satisfying as mains.

As the meal progresses, the Fattoush Salad arrives with a promise of freshness that, unfortunately, it doesn’t quite deliver. The romaine is crisp enough, but the tomatoes and cucumbers taste as though they’ve spent too long in cold storage, lacking the juicy vibrancy you’d hope for in a dish that should sing of summer. The sumac vinaigrette, meant to provide a bright, citrusy tang, falls flat, its flavours muddled and unremarkable. The toasted pita shards, instead of providing a satisfying crunch, border on stale, contributing more to the disappointment than the texture. What should have been a refreshing palate cleanser becomes a lacklustre interlude, one that leaves you wondering if Rose’s attention to balance and detail has wandered elsewhere.

Similarly, the Chicken Shawarma, despite its potential, failed to match the highs set by the earlier dishes. While the marinade hinted at cumin and coriander, the seasoning was subtle to a fault, and the chicken itself, though tender, lacked the succulence that one hopes for in a shawarma. While the assortment of accompaniments—tahini, pickles, amba, and skhug—attempted to bolster the experience, it wasn’t enough to overshadow the underwhelming flavour of the meat.

But where Fat Pasha falters most significantly is in its service. Despite the restaurant being far from full, lapses were frequent and noticeable. Our drink orders took an unreasonable time to arrive, and a missing item from the order had to be flagged more than once. Plates lingered far too long after we finished courses, and water refills were only granted upon request. Though the staff members were polite when present, the service lacked the attentiveness and engagement that should accompany a restaurant of this caliber, especially one mentioned in Toronto’s Michelin Guide.

Fat Pasha’s food is a vibrant celebration of Middle Eastern flavours, presented with flair and creativity. The kitchen’s triumphs deserve their accolades, but the overall experience is dulled by the disjointed front-of-house performance. In an age where seamless service can elevate an evening from good to exceptional, Fat Pasha’s failure to marry its inventive cuisine with attentive hospitality is a shortcoming too glaring to ignore.

Bisous,

Mme. M.

3/5

La rubrique de Madame Marie

1 étoile – Run. Before you get the runs.
2 étoiles – Mediocre, but nothing you couldn’t make at home.
3 étoiles – C’est bon, with some standout qualities.
4 étoiles – Many memorable qualities and excellent execution. Compliments to the chef.
5 étoiles – Formidable! Michelin Star quality. Book a reservation immediately.