Restaurant Review: General Public – A Love Letter to Flavour and Form

There’s a buzz in Toronto’s west end—a quiet yet distinct energy. It drifts from the unassuming stretch of Geary Avenue, where General Public, the latest creation from restaurateur Jen Agg, has made its mark. If you’re familiar with Agg’s work—and let’s face it, any Toronto dining enthusiast should be—you know not to expect the expected. Yet, even by Agg’s exacting standards, General Public is an exercise in surprise.

In an age where menus are either too concise or maddeningly voluminous, General Public strikes a balance that feels measured, like a perfectly timed cadence. The restaurant itself is an ode to what Agg does best: crafting spaces that are at once cerebral and sensual, places where people can see and be seen, but where the food never plays second fiddle. As you enter the two-story space, the ode-to-the-80s décor immediately signals a lack of pretense—a statement, perhaps, that here, it’s all about the essence. Downstairs, the cozy warmth of custom millwork and intimate booths evokes a modern pub, softened by white oak and geometric angles.

Upstairs, the mood shifts dramatically. Pastel pink and minty green create a playful, Palm Springs vibe. Velvet banquettes, mirrored ceilings, brass accents, and hanging ferns bring a relaxed opulence, while a flamingo mural adds a cheeky, vibrant flair.

By daylight, General Public is a cozy luncheonette, while in the evening, it sheds its afternoon softness for a hushed, seductive glow—just as the crowd at the glistening quartzite bar becomes a little livelier. The menu at General Public, deceptively simple, reads like a love letter to classic British pub fare but reimagined through Agg’s rebellious lens. Take, for example, the house-made bread basket which includes buttery pull-apart rolls, aged cheddar cheese straws, an herb biscuit, and a red fife cracker. You could almost stop here and be satisfied, but to do so would be to miss out on the slow crescendo of flavours that the kitchen has so carefully composed.

The Shrimp Cocktail, simple yet elevated, sets the tone at General Public. Five shrimp arrive on a fish-shaped plate, their pink sheen glistening like pearls under soft lighting. Their texture, firm yet succulent, finds a perfect counterpoint in a cocktail sauce that balances piquant with sweet, giving this classic dish a newfound allure that lingers.

Then, from the small plates, the Popcorn Clams and Mussels surprise and delight, each bite a golden, briny nod to the sea. Their crisp, airy coating hides an oceanic richness, while Colman’s mayo—a nod to Agg’s knack for nostalgia with a twist—adds just the right zing, creating a flavor that’s both comforting and playfully complex.

The Endive Salad could easily be overlooked on a menu full of bold offerings, but that would be a mistake. Its arrangement is a painterly riot of color: pale yellow endive leaves, dark currants curled like ribbons, walnuts scattered like pebbles, and a dusting of finely shaved aged cheddar, a snowy cap atop it all. Each bite surprises with a balance of bitterness, sweetness, and creamy nuttiness, a simple yet complete harmony.

In an unexpected yet delightful turn, the Masala Poached Eggs arrive, infused with earthy spices. Poached to perfection, the eggs rest in a richly spiced sauce that envelops them like a warm embrace. A mint yogurt provides cooling relief, each bite a dance between bold and gentle, fiery and soothing—a deviation from the ordinary, and precisely the point.

For the dinner mains, an herb-crusted Halibut offers a restrained revelation with a buttery flesh that melts with each forkful. The Roast Chicken, meanwhile, is comfort elevated. Arriving with crackling golden skin, each juicy bite borders on decadent. A baby leek vinaigrette and pickled mustard seeds lend a gentle tang, drawing out textures and flavours until rustic and refined blend in an unhurried, perfect harmony.

For dessert, the butterscotch pudding is as playful as it is indulgent. Served in a cracked-open can, it coaxes diners to dig in, with Biscoff cookies for dipping. Walking that fine line between whimsy and richness, it’s canned in-house and as charming as it is delicious.

Agg has always been a master of atmosphere, and here she deftly balances her signature cool with a warmth that invites you to linger. The service is mostly seamless, attentive without being intrusive, with a team that is less pretentious than most restaurants in the city—a nod, perhaps, to the restaurant’s moniker.

Each plate at General Public feels like an invitation to sit a little longer, to savour, to be present in a way that feels rare and refreshing. There is an unmistakable warmth here, a sense of gathering that speaks to the heart of its name. With every carefully balanced flavour and unfussy but elegant presentation, Agg has created a space where dining feels both grand and familiar, like the joy of coming home.

Bisous, Mme. M.

4/5  

La rubrique de Madame Marie
1 étoile – Run. Before you get the runs.
2 étoiles – Mediocre, but nothing you couldn’t make at home.
3 étoiles – C’est bon, with some standout qualities.
4 étoiles – Many memorable qualities and excellent execution. Compliments to the chef.
5 étoiles – Formidable! Michelin Star quality. Book a reservation immediately.