Restaurant Review: Ficoa – Global Inspirations, Local Elegance

Since its opening in spring 2024, Ficoa, has become a dining experience that people are talking about. At its core is Chef Gerry Quintero. From his roots in Mexico to years spent refining his craft in some of Toronto’s most celebrated kitchens (Scarpetta, Yours Truly, Torito, El Caballito, Linda Modern Thai, and Rosalinda), Quintero has created a menu that blends the best of his multicultural inspirations into a cohesive, shareable feast.

This foundation has lent Chef Quintero a knack for blending diverse traditions with impeccable skill, creating an experience at Ficoa that feels both curated and familiar, yet brimming with unexpected turns. Here, the menu is eclectic, a testament to Quintero’s love for fermentation, multicultural flavours, and the seasonal ingredients that bring them to life. High-quality local ingredients sit proudly alongside imported treasures, elevating every dish.

Diners are welcomed with a complimentary drink that sets the mood—bright, refreshing, and hinting at the culinary journey ahead. For those seeking a structured experience, the tasting menu unveils Ficoa’s offerings through a multi-course progression. It features a weekly-changing menu that is strongly driven by seasonality. The menu consists of 16 plates in 7 courses spanning approximately two hours and is $200 per person, not including beverage pairings.

But Ficoa also invites guests to explore its selections more freely through a comprehensive à la carte menu designed to foster a convivial dining experience. The small and large plates here are crafted with sharing in mind, encouraging diners to mix and match dishes, creating a communal table that feels almost like dining at home with close friends. The à la carte offerings allow guests to sample widely, from the gnocchi with caramelized cream and parmesan chicharron to the Ficoa Burger, a 40-ounce dry aged beef patty topped with three cheeses, tomato, lettuce and burger sauce.

But the tasting menu is the reason to visit Ficoa. It opens with a dish that sets the tone for what’s to come: the celeriac truffle with crispy lion’s mane and sunchoke bravas. These dishes, seemingly straightforward, reveals its complexity with each bite. The celeriac—bright and earthy—is elevated by a whisper of truffle, its umami richness carefully balanced to avoid overpowering the dish. The lion’s mane mushroom, crispy and golden, adds a textural contrast that feels indulgent yet restrained, while the sunchoke bravas provide a delightful nod to comfort food. Their natural sweetness is coaxed to the surface through careful roasting, then sharpened with a tangy, smoky finish.

Then there’s the truffle cavatelli, a dish that brings a different kind of richness—deeper, darker, and unapologetically luxurious. Each cavatelli, hand-rolled to perfection, carries the faint earthiness of truffle within its tender folds. The pasta’s velvety texture is accentuated by a sauce that feels impossibly silky, its truffle essence complemented by subtle hints of aged Parmesan and just enough acidity to keep it from veering into heaviness.

The heartier, larger plates take the shared dining concept further, with offerings like the PEI short rib, whose ramp bone marrow cream and mandarin jus make it ideal for tasting and savouring together. Chef Quintero’s Losing Duck, slathered in a smoky morita BBQ sauce, is a standout here—a dish rooted in his Mexican heritage that somehow feels right at home on the table. Side dishes extend the menu’s versatility, with comforting tamales alongside chilled, charred asparagus topped with a bold chili crisp, adding layers of flavour that invite curiosity and conversation.

But after such a parade of creativity and depth, the dessert course falters. The poached rhubarb with delicate meringue is visually striking and elegant in its simplicity. The rhubarb’s tartness is balanced by the meringue’s airy sweetness, yet the dish feels overly restrained compared to the boldness that precedes it. While the dessert is enjoyable, it lacks the sense of discovery that defines the earlier courses, leaving the meal’s finale somewhat muted.

Beyond its exquisite dishes, Ficoa offers something more—a unique membership experience that transforms this restaurant into a home-away-from-home for those lucky enough to join. Members enjoy exclusive privileges like personalized service, where your favourite coffee or cocktail awaits you as you walk in. This special treatment extends to the kitchen as well, with access to the elusive “Golden Ticket” tasting menus, which showcase some of Chef Quintero’s most experimental and seasonal creations. Membership at Ficoa isn’t just about convenience or exclusivity; it’s about becoming a part of a community, one that savours each meal as an event in itself.

The restaurant’s ambiance reflects the cuisine’s ethos, merging refinement with a hint of rustic warmth. Tables are generously spaced, allowing each group to savor their meal in a bubble of intimacy, as if Ficoa has anticipated that every meal here will be memorable. Chef Quintero’s team operates like a well-rehearsed ensemble, each dish arriving at the table like a part of a larger narrative.

Despite the dessert course’s slight stumble, Ficoa delivers an extraordinary dining experience that lingers long after the final bite. It is a restaurant that understands its purpose: not to dazzle with fleeting trends, but to nourish the soul with food that tells a story. In a city often seduced by flash, Ficoa offers something infinitely more enduring—thoughtfulness, artistry, and a place to feel at home.

Bisous,

Mme. M.

4/5

La rubrique de Madame Marie

1 étoile – Run. Before you get the runs.
2 étoiles – Mediocre, but nothing you couldn’t make at home.
3 étoiles – C’est bon, with some standout qualities.
4 étoiles – Many memorable qualities and excellent execution. Compliments to the chef.
5 étoiles – Formidable! Michelin Star quality. Book a reservation immediately.