Restaurant Review: Milou – Flavours Thrill, But Will the Service Leave You Cold?

Milou, located on a bustling corner of Dundas West, is the kind of place that provokes quiet deliberation. It doesn’t flaunt its charms at first glance, nor does it follow the raucous path of establishments scrambling for a viral moment. Instead, it leans into a subtle elegance.

The ambiance is just shy of romantic, with clean lines and furnishings that whisper rather than shout. An open kitchen and wood accents lend a warmth that balances the crisp, minimalist aesthetic, while a Rolex clock suspended from the ceiling hints at a touch of understated luxury. The ambiance is inviting whether you’ve come for brunch, a lingering lunch, or an evening dinner, shifting seamlessly from day to night with an ease few places master.

Milou is co-owned by chef Michael Kim and Adrian Montesdeoca. Chef Kim, known for his previous venture Uncle Mikey’s, brings his French culinary training to Milou, channeling his expertise into a menu that includes classic bistro fare, from steak frites to truffled chicken supreme. The dishes reflect the touch of a chef who deeply respects the craft, creating a menu that feels both elevated and accessible.

My guest and I decided to test the waters with espresso-based beverages that arrived with a rich crema and just the right touch of bitterness to complement the early afternoon air. It set the stage for the dishes that followed, beginning with the Milou Breakfast: soft scrambled eggs that struck that rare balance between creamy and airy, lifted by the subtle flavour of chives and a dollop of crème fraîche. The toasted sourdough was hearty, its slight tang providing an ideal counterpoint to the eggs, and a choice of bacon lent a smoky depth that made it hard to leave a morsel behind.

Then came the burger. To call it a burger feels almost reductive; it is a testament to what this humble dish can become in the hands of a chef who understands the alchemy of simplicity. The patty, seared to an audible crisp, is made from a meticulous blend of cuts that ensures each bite is succulent without the kind of grease that turns napkins into sopping messes. The sesame-speckled bun is buttery and plush, barely cradling the meat, and yet holding its own under the weight of melted Gruyère and a whisper of Dijon. A side of frites, crispy and golden, stood as the burger’s loyal page, though you’ll hardly need them to confirm what you already suspect: this might just be the best burger in the city.

Yet for all the restaurant’s culinary triumphs, the service tells a slightly different story, complicating the otherwise seamless dining experience. For an establishment that dazzles with such high-calibre food and a wine list that could entice even the most discerning oenophile, the service stands in surprising contrast. The servers, while knowledgeable and well-versed in the intricacies of the menu, carry an air of aloofness that borders on pretentious. It is not the kind of pretension rooted in earnest passion or a desire to uphold exacting standards but one that feels performative, as though the mere presence of this bastion of French-inspired excellence is reason enough to be grateful for a table. Questions about wine pairings or suggestions for the evening’s specials are met with answers that seem rehearsed, delivered with a hint of impatience that feels out of sync with the warmth the food evokes.

Such an attitude could be forgiven if it matched the pomp of a more imposing fine dining space, but at Milou, where the ambiance straddles comfort and sophistication, it feels like a discordant note in an otherwise harmonious score. One might find themselves silently willing the service to soften, to match the hearty welcome of that first bite of the steak frites or the gentle embrace of the coq au vin.

Desserts lean toward the familiar—a Basque cheesecake that arrives with its caramelized top crisped to that perfect boundary of dark amber, a subtle nod to restraint. And by the time your spoon scrapes the last bite from the plate, you find yourself settled into that rare space where conversation and contentment flow as easily as a bottle of Côtes du Rhône.

Milou is not the loudest voice on the block, nor does it aspire to be. Instead, it holds your attention with a kind of quiet brilliance, like the final line of a well-worn book that leaves you nodding in admiration, eager for the next time. It’s a place that makes Toronto feel richer, more layered—a small piece of Paris laid gently across the city’s evolving landscape. And with a touch more warmth from the staff, it could become the kind of place where memories are made, rather than just meals savoured.

Bisous,

Mme. M.

3.5/5  

La rubrique de Madame Marie
1 étoile – Run. Before you get the runs.
2 étoiles – Mediocre, but nothing you couldn’t make at home.
3 étoiles – C’est bon, with some standout qualities.
4 étoiles – Many memorable qualities and excellent execution. Compliments to the chef.
5 étoiles – Formidable! Michelin Star quality. Book a reservation immediately.